Yakushima - Japan's Natural Treasure

Away from the bustling crowds and flashing neon of the big city, Japan is blessed with an abundance of stunning natural beauty, from the rugged mountain landscapes of Hokkaido in the north, to the pristine tropical beaches of Okinawa in the south. Indeed, with images of Japan overseas generally dominated by the sprawling cityscape of Tokyo, it's easy to forget that over 70 percent of Japan is still covered by forest. Although much of this area lacks a certain scenic charm, with virtually identical trees planted in regimented lines, and signs of civilisation, such as roads and pylons, rarely too far away, there are still some corners of Japan where the forests remain relatively untouched by man. Nowhere is this more the case than the island of Yakushima, situated off the southern tip of Kyushu.

Encompassing an area of around 500 km squared, Yakushima is by no means a large island, but what it lacks in breadth it makes up for in height. The island juts dramatically out of the ocean, with most of the land sloping up until reaching a few mountain peaks near the centre, of which the tallest, Miyanoura-dake, at 1935m, is actually the highest point in the whole of southern Japan. This extreme topography makes for a very changeable and varied climate, meaning you could be shivering up in a snowy mountain a few hours after lying on a balmy beach. In a way, it's like a hybrid of Hokkaido and Okinawa!

The other, more infamous, feature of Yakushima's climate is the rain. It's by far the wettest place in Japan, and locals joke that it rains eight days a week. While all this rain may not make life comfortable for humans, it's ideal for trees and plants, which goes to explain the amazing greenness of most of the island. Among the various species of trees on Yakushima, many of which are indigenous, the yakusugi, a kind of ceder tree, are the largest, oldest and thus the most renowned. The grandaddy of these, Jomon Sugi, a popular hiking destination, is estimated to be at least 3000 years old.

I had longed to visit Yakushima ever since watching the Hayao Miyazaki animation Princess Mononoke over 10 years ago, which captivated me with its gorgeous depiction of a land covered with lush primeval forest. Miyazaki has been to Yakushima numerous times, and the island is often cited as the main inspiration for Princess Mononoke, with many of the film's locations based directly on actual scenic spots on the island. 

Last month, I finally got my chance to stand amongst the ancient yakusugi trees myself, when I visited Yakushima on a three-day trip. Ideally, I would have preferred a bit more time, but three days was still sufficient to get an unforgettable taste of the natural wonders that this green gem has to offer. Winter is not the most popular time for visitors to the island, as it brings colder weather and shorter daylight hours for hiking, but in the end I felt that we were fortunate to go when we did. The fewer number of fellow hikers meant that even the more popular trails were relatively empty, enabling us to feel even closer to nature, and while snowy and icy conditions on the higher ground caused a few roads to temporarily close, venturing through the eerily silent forest with feet crunching in the pristine snow felt great!

As well as the abundant greenery, there`s no shortage of animal life to be seen on Yakushima, in particular the indigenous Yaku deer and macaque monkeys. Due to having long been at the top of the food chain, with no natural predators, the deer are not at all wary of humans, and will often let you walk right up to them without seeming to bat an eyelid. In around six hours of hiking, I must have seen at least 20 deer at close quarters, and one even sneaked right up behind me while I was having lunch to politely request a few leftovers! The monkeys proved to be considerably more elusive, and when we did finally encounter some it almost led to disaster. On winding our way in a hired car along the narrow road which traverses the west coast of the island, we were so busy admiring the stunning views out the window that we almost failed to notice the group of monkeys sat in the middle of the road as we came round a sharp bend. Once my heart had stopped pounding from the narrow escape, I was tempted to get out of the car for a closer look, but decided against it on the advice of the guidebook. Unlike the passive deer, Yaku monkeys can be quite temperamental, and have been known to attack people.

While the west coast of Yakushima is mostly characterized by dense forest and steeply rising cliffs, with the single-lane road the only evidence of human habitation, the east coast is where the bulk of the island's approximately 15,000 residents, not to mention the tourists, can be found. There are also a few beaches, one of which receives special visitors for a few weeks every summer in the form of female loggerhead turtles coming to lay their eggs. Another of Yakushima's natural attractions, which can be experienced all year round, are its onsen (hot springs). There are even a few outdoor onsen right next to the sea, although the  basic facilities and cold air dissuaded me from stripping off and going for a dip in the warm water. Instead, I settled for the more comfortable option of the indoor onsen at the hotel we stayed at!

Yakushima is a truly enchanting place, and I'd recommend it to any nature-lovers and intrepid hikers. I definitely plan to go back there again, preferably in the spring or summer, so that I can experience the contrasting charms of a different season, and be able to happily take a dip in the outdoor onsen. Whenever I do make it back though, I doubt I'll be as lucky with the weather as I was last month - it only rained for a couple of hours in three whole days!