The Bewitching Beats of Toe

On a baking afternoon in July, chilling with a beer in a field in Niigata, I was roused from my slightly drunken reverie by a sweet sweet sound wafting on the breeze, all twangley guitars and rat-a-tat drumming. It was one of those all-too-rare love-at-first-hear experiences when I knew within a few beats that here was a band that I'd never grow tired of. The occasion was the Fuji Rock Festival and the band was Toe.

One of the great things about music festivals is stumbling across new music that you wouldn't usually get exposed to. In this case, I was particularly pleased that my new musical love was Japanese as I'd been waiting in vain for an artist from my adopted home with the potential to not just be "big in Japan" but around the world too. I feel that Toe have a better chance than most of their contemporaries of gaining overseas recognition, partly because they rarely sing in Japanese (actually, they rarely sing at all), but mostly because their music has a universal quality that transcends boundaries or nationalities. But don't just take my word for it - check out this highlight from their latest live DVD (the track kicks in properly on about 1 minute).

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I don't generally like pigeon-holing bands in a particular genre anyway, but Toe defy classification more than most. On the surface, their make-up of two guitarists, a bassist and a drummer would suggest them to be a rock band. However, their instrumental-heavy sound is closer in style to jazz than rock. While all four members are blessed with undeniable musical talent, I'd have to say that the drummer, Takashi Kashikura, is the stand-out performer, and the one who the band revolves around. I'm no expert on drumming but I know a genius with drumsticks when I hear one. For him, drumming isn't just about keeping a beat, it's about creating a frenzied throng of beats for the listener to get lost in. Kashikura is actually a very busy man, as he plays in another, even better-known, Japanese band, The Hiatus, who are much more straight-out rock, and incidentally are pretty damn good themselves.

Although I have only recently discovered them, Toe have been around for 12 years already, in which time they've released two full-length albums and a number of EPs. Visiting their website (http://www.toe.st), I was thrilled to see they have just been touring in Europe through September. I really hope they can continue to spread their fan base even further outside of Japan, as their spine-tingling tunes certainly deserve to be heard by as many people as possible in my opinion. For those reading this in Japan, Toe will also be performing with their label-mates Tangled Hair, in mid October, in Yokohama and Tokyo. I certainly plan to be there, and to continue to support this magical band for many years to come.

Red Ronin's Selection: Recent Japanese Films

If you're a foreigner in Japan with a desire to improve in the local lingo, as well as broaden your cultural knowledge, then one of the most effective, and fun, resources is to be found on the shelves of your local DVD rental store. Japan is currently experiencing somewhat of a "Golden Age" of cinema, with more domestically-made films being released to larger audiences than ever before. However, much like elsewhere these days, the quality releases seem to be vastly outnumbered by the mindless dross. So, I've decided to provide the service of selecting five of my personal favorite Japanese films of the past couple of years. These are all fairly mainstream and accessible fare (no hardcore horror or art-house cinema, I'm afraid) which should be easily located on your next trip down to Tsutaya (other rental stores are available). I've tried to include a variety of genres to suit tastes, and while I can't guarantee you'll share in my gushing praise of the films below, you should at least be passably entertained by them (which is saying something in the current worldwide dross-infested film climate!)

1. Suteki na Kanashibari / Once in a Blue Moon  (Comedy, 2011)
The latest effort from cult director Koki Mitani, has both great charm and a barrel-load of laughs. While most Japanese comedies seem to be of the hysterical, slapstick variety, with little room for subtlety, Mitani's tongue-in-cheek style harks back to the days of classic Billie Wilder comedies such as Some Like it Hot. The plot centers around a young lawyer, played by Mitani's muse Eri Fukatsu, who attempts to solve a murder case with the help of the ghost of a Samurai warrior. Sounds pretty ridiculous, which it is, but a host of great performances and clever twists mean that the story never drags, and there is even a genuinely emotional ending.

2. Youka-me no Semi (trans: Eighth-day Cicada) (Drama, 2011)
Based on the acclaimed novel by Mitsuyo Kakuta, this harrowing tale of a baby kidnapping also went on to garner multiple awards for its lead actress Hiromi Nagasaku, deservedly so in my humble opinion. The story is split in two, alternating between the kidnapping's immediate aftermath, and the present day, where the baby in question has grown into a young woman. Nagasaku's portrayal of the kidnapper, Kiwako, is truly heartbreaking, as she manages to generate great sympathy and pity for a character who could simply be condemned for her actions. It's certainly not an easy watch, but this is a film that will stay with you long after the credits have rolled.

3. Futatabi / Swing me Again (Drama, 2010)
While this wasn't as big of a commercial hit as the other films on this list, in terms of feel-good power it's hard to top. It's a classic "road movie," with the two travelers in question being an elderly jazz trumpeter (played with suitable gruff charm by comedian Ichiro Zaitsu) and his surly grandson who also happens to play the trumpet. Zaitsu's character has suffered from the debilitating Hansen's disease for the past 50 years, and now that he's in recovery he tries to seek out the other members of his former band for one last performance. Needless to say, the search mission doesn't all go smoothly, but there are plenty of smiles and tears along the way. Even if you're not a big fan of jazz (and I'm not), this is an enjoyable and rewarding film, with real heart.

4. Gantz (Action, 2011)
As with so many major films in Japan these days, Gantz originates from a popular manga series, in this case a sci-fi action caper where a team of seemingly random challengers are tasked with battling a formidable lineup of "aliens" one-by-one. I won't bother trying to explain the complicated plot, as to be honest I was kind of left behind half way through. However, that didn't really effect my viewing enjoyment, as in terms of special effects and action set-pieces, this is one of the most impressive Japanese films I have seen in recent years. Just leave your brain at the door and enjoy the ride! (but don't bother with the sequel, Gantz: Perfect Answer, as that really is a bit of an overblown mess)

5. Tantei wa Bar ni Iru (trans: The Detective is in the Bar) (Action/Comedy, 2011)
One of the most interesting things about this film for me was its location of snowy Sapporo, a refreshing change from all the films and TV shows set in and around Tokyo. The "Detective" of the title, endowed with lashings of cynicism and dry humor by Yo Oizumi, spends much of the film getting beaten about by local Yakuza, as he doggedly investigates the disappearance of a young woman. The plot and atmosphere of this film reminded me in some ways of a Raymond Chandler effort, complete with the obligatory femme fatalle, played here admirably by the gorgeous Ko Yuki. Anyway, in the genre of detective-based action/comedy, I definitely recommend this over the wildly popular but frankly annoying Odoru Daisosasen (trans: Dancing Major Investigation) series.

Mr. Children come of age at 20

While I try to stay more or less in the loop when it comes to Japanese popular culture - it helps with writing a blog like this for a start! - I must admit that one area in which I have become somewhat out of touch in recent years is Japanese popular music (aka: J-Pop). This isn’t for lack of trying, however. Many is the time I’ve plugged myself into the listening post in Tower Records or wherever, drawn by the exotic promise of the nonsensical band name (Flumpool, Bump of Chicken, Thee Michelle Gun Elephant) and curious to discover some new sonic delights, only to be ultimately underwhelmed. At such times, I find myself getting nostalgic for the days of the late ‘90s / early noughties, when I used to listen to a fair amount of J-Pop, and regularly find bands whose music genuinely moved me and left a lasting impression. Chief among these was the only-slightly-weirdly-named Mr. Children (or “Misu-Chilu” as they are affectionately referred to by most locals).

In a Japanese popular music scene dominated by tweeny girl groups like AKB48 and so-called “visual-kei” acts such as L’Arc En Ciel, who seem to be more about the look and the product than the actual music, Mr. Children have long stood out for me as a proper band with proper tunes. If I had to liken them to any Western band, I guess it would be U2. Apart from the relative longevity and massive popularity, their musical styles are fairly similar, with back catalogs bursting with soaring stadium-sized anthems, tailor made for being played before seas of lighter-waving fans. The two bands’ lead singers also have quite a bit in common. As well as taking on the lion’s share of songwriting duties, like Bono, Kazutoshi Sakurai is a captivating on-stage presence, in possession of a chameleon-like voice just as suited to screeching a rousing rock chorus as it is to crooning a heartfelt ballad.

Fortunately for me, listening to Mr. Children is not just a matter of nostalgia, as they remain just as wildly popular now as they were back in the ‘90s. Indeed, the spotlight is shining on the band stronger than ever at the moment, due to the fact that May 2012 marks their 20th anniversary. To celebrate this landmark (which makes me feel pretty damn old…), two best-of albums have been released, and unsurprisingly shot straight to the top of the charts – “micro” covers the period 2001-2005 while “macro” takes us up to 2010, basically repeating the pattern of their 10th anniversary, when two best-of albums covering their career up to 2001 were released. Mr. Children have barely paused for breath over their two decade career, having released a total of 16 albums and 34 singles to date. This prolific output is even more impressive when you consider some of the obstacles the band have had to overcome, not least in 2002 when lead singer Sakurai was diagnosed with a serious brain infection. The fact that he was back on stage again within a matter months after such a potentially life-threatening setback is testament to his and the band’s unshakable spirit and commitment to their work.

In my opinion these four best-of albums are an ideal showcase of Mr. Children’s charms, and an effective riposte to anyone who thinks that J-pop music lacks emotional power. If I had to recommend one of the four compilations as an introduction to the band, it would be “micro” (2001-2005) as this period arguably represents their popular and creative peak. The fact that 14 of the 15 tracks on the album are credited as either a TV drama or commercial theme song just goes to show how deep the band’s penetration of popular culture in Japan was at the time. Tunes like “Youthful Days,” “Any” and “Hero” have lost little of their impact over the years, while some of the videos, also included in the album package, have rightly earned all-time classic status. For example, the beautifully shot “Kurumi” tells the touching and humorous tale of a down-and-out salaryman who rediscovers his ‘mojo’ with the help of an old acoustic guitar. I dare anyone to watch it without feeling moved!

The fact that Mr. Children have managed to remain at the top of the musical heap in Japan for twenty years is certainly a feat worth celebrating. However, Mr. Sakurai and Co. are unlikely to rest on their laurels. I wouldn’t bet against them continuing the pattern and releasing another pair of best-of albums ten years from now, packed with just as many quality tunes as ever.

Japanese moviegoers getting left behind

This summer promises to be a exciting time for movie lovers, with a slew of big releases on the horizon. "The Avengers" has already kicked things off in fine style this month, breaking international box office records, and June will likely see the "Alien" prequel "Prometheus" and Pixar's latest effort "Brave" entertaining cinema audiences across the globe. With one notable exception - Japan.

Those like me who live in Japan will have to wait until August at the earliest to see any of the above movies on the big screen. And a wait of two-three months is, by Japanese standards, comparatively brief! Upcoming cinema releases here include the critically acclaimed George Clooney drama "The Descendants," Woody Allen's quirky comedy "Midnight in Paris" and the welcome return of "The Muppets," all of which were released almost everywhere else last year!

Tom Cruise signs for fans at the Mi4 premiere

Such delays aren't the case for every foreign movie release here, as blockbuster franchises such as "Transformers" or "Mission Impossible" tend to be largely immune. However, if you fancy watching a movie with quality acting and plot, rather than just explosions and CGI, you're likely going to need bags of patience.

So what could be the reason behind this tardiness? When I first lived in Japan back in the 90s, I mainly put it down to being a language issue, resulting from the time needed to translate subtitles for example, and I also assumed that it was not something limited to Japan. Now though, having spent time in other countries around eastern Asia, like Taiwan, Thailand and Malaysia, and seen how many Western movie releases there manage to keep pace with the US and elsewhere, I'm convinced that there must be other factors at work.

Probably the major aspect that separates Japan from the above countries is the relative strength of its domestic movie industry. This is evident in the fact that 10 of the top 20 highest grossing movies in Japan last year were home-made (http://boxofficemojo.com/intl/japan/yearly/?yr=2011&p=.htm). The quantity and quality of Japanese movies has undoubtedly risen in recent years, contributing to a situation where much of the population is simply not particularly interested in watching a foreign release in the cinema unless it's part of a blockbusting franchise or features a major star. Of course, it's great that Japan has a thriving movie industry, and long may this continue. However, this should not be a sufficient reason for releases of so many quality Western movies being treated like some kind of afterthought. In Hong Kong, for example, where the domestic movie industry is even more prolific and dominant, you'd still be able to go and see a comparatively highbrow movie like, say, Oscar winner "The Artist" (which, incidentally, came out here this April, five months after the US) just as promptly as trashy popcorn fodder like "Transformers."

The Artist - only 5 months late arriving in Japan

To further explain the situation, it's necessary to consider the nature of movie-going culture in Japan, specifically how movies are marketed to the general public. I get the sense that the idea of the movie as a marketing "event" is stronger here than anywhere else I've been. This is embodied by the opening press conferences, which for many star vehicles typically involve the lead actor(s) being interviewed by and posing for photographs with a random local celebrity. In order for this preferred scenario to happen though, the actor(s) need to actually make it out to Japan, which in a lot of cases isn't possible for a few months. Whereas elsewhere in Asia the movie would get released on time anyway, apparently the powers that be in Japan aren't prepared to put out such movies without some kind of attention-seeking fanfare. The mentality of those who distribute foreign movies here appears fundamentally conservative and petrified of taking risks - rather than release a movie to sink or swim on its own merits, it's better to wait a few months so you can stick a "US Number 1" or "Academy Award Winner" blurb on the poster to ensure larger audiences. While this may make sense from a marketing perspective, it's hard to escape the feeling that the Japanese movie-going public are losing out.

I'd like to say there's a prospect of the situation changing sometime soon, but to be honest I can't see it happening. In the meantime, there's always illegal downloading to fall back on!

Surreal Star Power - Hollywood Actors in Japanese TV Commercials

I'm not much of a fan of Japanese TV, with the majority of its prime-time programs consisting of annoying "variety" shows populated by a rotating cast of so-called "talentos" (who mostly seem to lack any kind of talent). In between the programs, however, the TV commercials here are often pretty entertaining, not to mention downright weird, viewing. This is particularly true when it comes to the range of CMs featuring A-list Hollywood actors. While they usually wouldn't be seen dead plugging products on TV in their home countries, they seem more than willing to whore themselves to Japanese advertisers, presumably thinking that the rest of the world will remain largely ignorant of the fact. Well, I am here to try and clear up a bit of that ignorance, by naming and shaming a select few of these (previously) respected actors below. This is my personal selection of Japanese TV commercials featuring Hollywood celebrities - the more bizarre and embarrassing the better!

Tommy Lee Jones - Boss Coffee

Over the past few years, gravelly-voiced veteran actor Tommy Lee Jones has been starring in a series of CMs for this popular brand of canned coffee. The premise is that he is actually an alien disguised as Mr Jones, who is visiting Earth to observe human behaviour. They're all genius, but my particular favourite is the one where he tries his hand at working in a host bar and gets carried away at the tanning salon.

Nicholas Cage - Sankyo Pachinko

Admittedly, Nick Cage's shame threshold seems to be pretty high among Hollywood actors - witness the number of god-awful films he's starred in over the last few years. However, I'd never have thought he'd be  prepared to embarrass himself like this, by adopting a cringeworthy "hick" accent and dancing around with a bunch of human pachinko balls. Incidentally, for those who aren't familiar with pachinko, it's a popular form of gambling in Japan, involving silver balls that randomly drop through a machine.

Brad Pitt - Softbank

Brad Pitt is usually the epitome of cool, but he's totally dropped that image in this CM for cell-phone company Softbank, where he portrays a geeky tourist in France, kindly helping some locals get their car started. Amazingly, it was directed by Wes Anderson, who's responsible for some of my favourite films such as Rushmore and The Life Aquatic. Though this doesn't quite live up to those cinematic gems, it certainly exhibits some of Anderson's trademark quirkiness.

Kiefer Sutherland - Calorie Mate

This expensive-looking commercial spoofing "24" reveals the secret behind all-action hero Jack Bauer's incredible fitness and energy levels - he eats healthy Japanese snack bar Calorie Mate!

Sean Connery - Suntory Whisky

Not a particularly weird or amusing effort, but a classic of the genre nonetheless, mainly for being an inspiration for the charming film "Lost in Translation," in which Bill Murray's character travels to Japan to do a very similar commercial for the same product.

Yakushima - Japan's Natural Treasure

Away from the bustling crowds and flashing neon of the big city, Japan is blessed with an abundance of stunning natural beauty, from the rugged mountain landscapes of Hokkaido in the north, to the pristine tropical beaches of Okinawa in the south. Indeed, with images of Japan overseas generally dominated by the sprawling cityscape of Tokyo, it's easy to forget that over 70 percent of Japan is still covered by forest. Although much of this area lacks a certain scenic charm, with virtually identical trees planted in regimented lines, and signs of civilisation, such as roads and pylons, rarely too far away, there are still some corners of Japan where the forests remain relatively untouched by man. Nowhere is this more the case than the island of Yakushima, situated off the southern tip of Kyushu.

Encompassing an area of around 500 km squared, Yakushima is by no means a large island, but what it lacks in breadth it makes up for in height. The island juts dramatically out of the ocean, with most of the land sloping up until reaching a few mountain peaks near the centre, of which the tallest, Miyanoura-dake, at 1935m, is actually the highest point in the whole of southern Japan. This extreme topography makes for a very changeable and varied climate, meaning you could be shivering up in a snowy mountain a few hours after lying on a balmy beach. In a way, it's like a hybrid of Hokkaido and Okinawa!

The other, more infamous, feature of Yakushima's climate is the rain. It's by far the wettest place in Japan, and locals joke that it rains eight days a week. While all this rain may not make life comfortable for humans, it's ideal for trees and plants, which goes to explain the amazing greenness of most of the island. Among the various species of trees on Yakushima, many of which are indigenous, the yakusugi, a kind of ceder tree, are the largest, oldest and thus the most renowned. The grandaddy of these, Jomon Sugi, a popular hiking destination, is estimated to be at least 3000 years old.

I had longed to visit Yakushima ever since watching the Hayao Miyazaki animation Princess Mononoke over 10 years ago, which captivated me with its gorgeous depiction of a land covered with lush primeval forest. Miyazaki has been to Yakushima numerous times, and the island is often cited as the main inspiration for Princess Mononoke, with many of the film's locations based directly on actual scenic spots on the island. 

Last month, I finally got my chance to stand amongst the ancient yakusugi trees myself, when I visited Yakushima on a three-day trip. Ideally, I would have preferred a bit more time, but three days was still sufficient to get an unforgettable taste of the natural wonders that this green gem has to offer. Winter is not the most popular time for visitors to the island, as it brings colder weather and shorter daylight hours for hiking, but in the end I felt that we were fortunate to go when we did. The fewer number of fellow hikers meant that even the more popular trails were relatively empty, enabling us to feel even closer to nature, and while snowy and icy conditions on the higher ground caused a few roads to temporarily close, venturing through the eerily silent forest with feet crunching in the pristine snow felt great!

As well as the abundant greenery, there`s no shortage of animal life to be seen on Yakushima, in particular the indigenous Yaku deer and macaque monkeys. Due to having long been at the top of the food chain, with no natural predators, the deer are not at all wary of humans, and will often let you walk right up to them without seeming to bat an eyelid. In around six hours of hiking, I must have seen at least 20 deer at close quarters, and one even sneaked right up behind me while I was having lunch to politely request a few leftovers! The monkeys proved to be considerably more elusive, and when we did finally encounter some it almost led to disaster. On winding our way in a hired car along the narrow road which traverses the west coast of the island, we were so busy admiring the stunning views out the window that we almost failed to notice the group of monkeys sat in the middle of the road as we came round a sharp bend. Once my heart had stopped pounding from the narrow escape, I was tempted to get out of the car for a closer look, but decided against it on the advice of the guidebook. Unlike the passive deer, Yaku monkeys can be quite temperamental, and have been known to attack people.

While the west coast of Yakushima is mostly characterized by dense forest and steeply rising cliffs, with the single-lane road the only evidence of human habitation, the east coast is where the bulk of the island's approximately 15,000 residents, not to mention the tourists, can be found. There are also a few beaches, one of which receives special visitors for a few weeks every summer in the form of female loggerhead turtles coming to lay their eggs. Another of Yakushima's natural attractions, which can be experienced all year round, are its onsen (hot springs). There are even a few outdoor onsen right next to the sea, although the  basic facilities and cold air dissuaded me from stripping off and going for a dip in the warm water. Instead, I settled for the more comfortable option of the indoor onsen at the hotel we stayed at!

Yakushima is a truly enchanting place, and I'd recommend it to any nature-lovers and intrepid hikers. I definitely plan to go back there again, preferably in the spring or summer, so that I can experience the contrasting charms of a different season, and be able to happily take a dip in the outdoor onsen. Whenever I do make it back though, I doubt I'll be as lucky with the weather as I was last month - it only rained for a couple of hours in three whole days!